Sewing Tutorial: Embroidered Vyshyvanka Dress with a Casing and a Ruffle (Patterns 3124 and 1033)
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Raglan Embroidered Dress (Vyshyvanka) with Casings and a Ruffle: Step-by-Step Sewing Tutorial

This tutorial is dedicated to sewing an A-line vyshyvanka dress using patterns 3124 (women) and 1033 (girls). The design features a raglan sleeve with an underarm cut (gusset/insert), casings at the neckline and at the sleeve hems, a wide ruffle at the bottom of the dress, and a separate belt. The dress is comfortable, moderately loose, and looks equally great in both adult and children’s versions.

For the main fabric, linen (classic or “boho linen”) is recommended, as well as cotton and blended suiting and dress fabrics, batiste, and other stable textiles of similar weight. The embroidery can be done by machine or by hand—the ornament placement is guided by the bodice front and sleeve outlines provided in the pattern.

Materials and Fabric Requirements

Recommended fabrics

  • linen (white, bleached, colored, “boho linen”);
  • cotton and blended dress fabrics without high stretch;
  • batiste and other lightweight textiles for a summer version;
  • embroidery threads according to the chosen design (machine or hand embroidery);
  • cord for the neckline casing and sleeve-hem casings;
  • matching thread for construction and topstitching.

Ease allowance

  • For the women’s dress (3124): bust +12 cm, hips +8 cm.
  • For the girls’ dress (1033): bust +10 cm, hips +8 cm.

Materials consumption: women’s vyshyvanka dress (pattern 3124)

Size 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
Main fabric (1.5 m width) 2.35* 2.35* 2.40* 2.45* 2.50* 2.50* 2.50* 2.50* 2.55*

* Fabric requirements are given without allowances for shrinkage, nap, directional prints, checks/stripes matching, skewing, gaps, and other technical losses.

Materials consumption: girls’ vyshyvanka dress (pattern 1033)

Size (height) 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158
Main fabric (1.5 m width) 1.25* 1.30* 1.35* 1.65* 1.70* 1.75* 1.75* 1.80* 1.90* 1.95*

* Fabric requirements are given without allowances for shrinkage, nap, directional prints, checks/stripes matching, skewing, gaps, and other technical losses.

Step 1. Preparing the pattern, fabric, and embroidery

  • Cut out the dress pieces from the main fabric, aligning with the grainline and the planned embroidery placement on the front bodice and sleeves.
  • Fuse lightweight interfacing to the areas for the casing buttonholes (on the front bodice at the waistline and at the sleeve hems).
  • If the embroidery is machine-made, make sure it falls precisely within the outlines marked on the pattern pieces.

Step 2. Buttonholes for the casings on the bodice and sleeves

  • On the front bodice, transfer the buttonhole positions from the pattern along the casing line.
  • Transfer the buttonhole marks to the lower sleeve piece as well (where the casing for the drawstring will be).
  • Carefully baste and stitch the buttonholes on the machine, working on the interfaced areas.

Step 3. Preparing the lower sleeve

For the lower sleeve piece, first prepare the allowances for the casing and hem:

  • Overlock/finish the upper edge of the lower sleeve piece and press it to the wrong side by 2.5 cm;
  • Finish the lower edge of the sleeve and press it by 4 cm (for the drawstring casing);
  • Sew two rows of gathering stitches along the upper edge of the lower sleeve piece:
    • the first—about 1.5 cm from the edge;
    • the second—0.5 cm from the edge.
  • Gather the lower sleeve piece to match the width of the upper sleeve piece, using the notches as a guide. Do not gather in the underarm area to avoid extra bulk.

Step 4. Joining the upper and lower sleeve pieces

  • Place the upper and lower sleeve pieces right sides together, matching the notches.
  • Sew the lower piece to the upper piece with a seam that runs between the two gathering-stitch rows.
  • Press the seam allowances (together with the gathering stitches) upward toward the upper sleeve piece.
  • If desired, topstitch 0.1 cm from the seam on the upper sleeve to secure the allowances.

Step 5. Setting in the sleeves and sewing side seams

  • Sew the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice; press the seam allowances open.
  • Set the raglan sleeve into the open armhole, matching all notches.
  • Press the sleeve seams toward the sleeve; optionally topstitch on the garment 0.1 cm from the seam.
  • Sew the dress side seams and sleeve seams in one continuous seam, matching the cut lines and notches.
  • Press the side seams open; finish the raw edge at the bottom of the dress.

Step 6. Finishing the dress hem and the waist casing

  • Finish the raw edge at the bottom of the main dress piece.
  • Press the hem allowance according to the pattern (typically 1.5 cm + 1.5 cm to form the casing that runs through the buttonhole area on the front bodice).
  • Sew the first line 1.5 cm from the fold and the second line another 1.5 cm below, creating a neat casing for the tie.
  • Make sure both stitching lines pass through the area with the stitched buttonholes.

Step 7. Bottom ruffle

  • Sew the ruffle side seams into a loop; press the seams open.
  • Finish the lower edge of the ruffle, turn it up, and stitch it down by machine.
  • Finish the upper edge of the ruffle and press it by 2.5 cm.
  • Sew two rows of gathering stitches along the upper edge of the ruffle, 1.5 cm and 0.5 cm from the fold, for gathering.
  • Gather the ruffle to match the width of the dress hem, distributing the gathers evenly around the entire perimeter.
  • Place the ruffle and dress hem right sides together, match side seams and marks, and stitch.
  • Press the seam allowances upward; optionally secure with topstitching on the dress.

Step 8. Neckline casing

  • Finish the neckline edge all around.
  • Press it to the wrong side by about 4 cm.
  • Sew the first line 1.5 cm from the fold and the second line another 1.5 cm below, leaving a small opening to thread the cord through.
  • Press the casing, making sure the seam lies flat and does not twist.

Step 9. Sleeve-hem casing

  • On the pressed sleeve hem (4 cm), sew two parallel lines the same way as for the neckline: 1.5 cm and then +1.5 cm.
  • Make sure the stitching passes through the buttonhole area—this is where the cord will come out.
  • Leave small openings to thread the drawstrings through each sleeve.

Step 10. Drawstrings and belt

  • For the drawstrings, cut two strips from the main fabric about 2.8 cm wide, from selvage to selvage.
  • Fold each strip lengthwise into quarters (first in half, then in half again) and stitch along the edge to make a neat cord.
  • Use one cord for the neckline; cut the second one in half and insert it into the sleeve hems.
  • Make the belt from a separate long strip of fabric: fold it lengthwise in half, stitch, turn right side out, press, and optionally topstitch along the edges.

Step 11. Final pressing and fitting

  • Press all seams neatly, avoiding heavy steam on embroidered areas.
  • Check that the gathers on the sleeves, neckline, and ruffle are evenly distributed.
  • Adjust the neckline and sleeve-hem width with the drawstrings and tie bows.
  • Secure the belt at the desired waist position.

The vyshyvanka dress made with patterns 3124 and 1033 is ready. Depending on the fabric choice and embroidery colors, you can create either an everyday linen look or a festive folk-style dress for yourself and your child.

The video tutorial for sewing this dress is available on the “Prosti Lekala” YouTube channel.