The children’s jacket made with pattern 1098 is designed in a straight oversized silhouette. The model is intended for dense fabrics and is suitable for active children and teens. The sleeve has a dropped shoulder line; along the center of the sleeve there is a seam and decorative pleats that add volume and allow comfortable movement. The sleeve hem is finished with a cuff and closure.
The front features a yoke, a welt pocket, and a flap. The closure is a center-front separating zipper. The hem has a waistband/cuff with a wide elastic, shaping the silhouette and comfortably securing the jacket at the hips. The jacket is lined and comes with two collar options: a stand-and-fall collar with a tab for a buckle, or a simple bomber-style stand collar.
Pattern 1098 is suitable for everyday jackets for cool weather—kindergarten, school, and walks.
| Materials / Size (height) | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 | 134 | 140 | 146 | 152 | 158 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric, 1.5 m width | 0.85* | 0.95* | 0.95* | 1.05* | 1.10* | 1.15* | 1.20* | 1.25* | 1.30* | 1.35* |
| Interfacing, 1.5 m width | 0.45* | 0.45* | 0.50* | 0.50* | 0.50* | 0.55* | 0.55* | 0.60* | 0.60* | 0.65* |
| Lining, 1.5 m width | 0.55* | 0.60* | 0.65* | 0.75* | 0.80* | 0.85* | 0.90* | 0.95* | 1.00* | 1.05* |
| Elastic, cm | 45** | 46** | 47** | 48** | 50** | 52** | 54** | 56** | 58** | 60** |
| Zipper, cm | 38 | 40 | 41.5 | 43.5 | 45.5 | 47.5 | 49 | 51 | 53 | 55 |
* Material consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, skewing, waste, and other technological losses;
** Elastic length is approximate and depends on the elastic’s density and stretch;
Before cutting, pre-shrink (decatize) the main fabric and lining according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, check the fabric for defects, and determine the nap and print direction (especially if using checks, stripes, or textured fabrics).
When cutting, follow the grain direction marked on the pattern pieces. Carefully transfer all notches and markings: yoke placement lines, sleeve pleat lines, welt-pocket and flap outlines, center-front and center-back lines, zipper placement, waistband and cuff positions.
Cut interfacing pieces according to the fusing plan: be sure to fuse the facings, front edges in the zipper area, welt, flaps, cuffs, collars, waistband, and other areas that need reinforcement. For dense fabrics, full fusing of large pieces is recommended so the jacket keeps its shape better.
Step 1. Cut all pieces from the main fabric, lining, and interfacing, taking grain and print direction into account. Fuse pieces according to the fusing plan: facings, welt, flaps, cuffs, collars, waistband, and other reinforced areas.
Step 2. Welt pocket. Using the front pattern piece, mark the pocket position on the right side, extending the marked lines a few centimeters for convenience. Press the welt in half and stitch a temporary guideline along the open edge with a 1 cm seam allowance. Place the welt along the lower marked line (closer to the center front), matching the guideline to the marking, and baste/secure it. The pressed edge of the welt is oriented toward the center front.
Next, place the pocket facing (underlay) right sides together along the upper marked line and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, following the pocket outline. Start and end the stitching with backstitches exactly at the intersections of the marked lines. Along the pocket opening line, cut the front from the middle toward both sides, stopping 1.5 cm before the ends of the rectangle, then carefully clip diagonally into the corners, stopping 0.1 cm before the stitching. Turn the facing and welt to the wrong side through the opening. Form the pocket corners and stitch them down onto the seam allowances at the welt edges, ensuring the frame corners are square.
Place the pocket bag (lining) right sides together with the seam allowances of the welt attachment and stitch, sewing along the other side of the seam allowance and using the welt seam as a guide. Align the pocket bag and facing edges, stitch them together with a 1 cm seam allowance, and finish the seam allowances if needed. Press the finished pocket.
Step 3. Flap and front yoke. Place the upper and lower flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the lower edge. Press the seam allowances toward the lower flap and secure with a topstitch on the lower flap, 0.1 cm from the seam. Then place the flap pieces right sides together again, fold the lower-edge seam allowances toward the lower flap, and stitch the side edges with a 1 cm seam allowance. Trim bulk at the corners, turn the flap right side out, shape the corners, press, and topstitch around the flap edges with a 0.5 cm topstitch.
Position the flap with its straight (lower) edge to the right side of the lower front piece along the upper edge, matching the notches. The free edge of the flap points downward. Stitch the flap with a 1 cm seam allowance, securing the ends with backstitches, and press. Then place the yoke to the upper edge of the lower front piece, align edges, and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the yoke and topstitch on the yoke with a 0.5 cm topstitch.
Step 4. Join front and back at shoulders. Place right sides together and stitch shoulder seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances open or toward the back (according to the chosen overall method).
Step 5. Sleeves. On the back sleeve piece, form two pleats along the center seam, folding them downward according to the notches, and secure with a 0.5 cm stitch line. Place the front and back sleeve pieces right sides together and stitch the center seams with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches. Press the seam allowances toward the front sleeve piece and secure with a topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
At the lower edge of the back sleeve piece, form a pleat toward the sleeve closure (toward the cuff) and secure it with a 0.5 cm stitch line.
Step 6. Sleeve cuffs. Fold each cuff right sides together lengthwise and stitch the short side edges with a 1 cm seam allowance. Turn the cuff right side out, shape corners, and press thoroughly. Topstitch along the finished edges (bottom and sides) with a 0.5 cm topstitch.
Step 7. Set sleeves and attach cuffs. Insert the sleeve into the armhole right sides together, matching notches and aligning the shoulder seam with the sleeve cap mark. Stitch the sleeve into the armhole with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the armhole.
With the sleeve already set, place the front and back right sides together and stitch the side seams and sleeve seams in one continuous line with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching the underarm points. Press the side and sleeve seams open.
Place the cuff to the right side of the sleeve hem, matching the notches at the bottom of the back sleeve piece. Stitch the cuff in the round with a 1 cm seam allowance, easing the sleeve slightly (about 0.5 cm) between the notches so the cuff is not strained. Finish the seam allowances, fold them toward the sleeve, and between the notches stitch a short topstitch to secure the allowance.
Step 8. Hem waistband/cuff. Fold the waistband piece in half lengthwise with the wrong side inside and press to create a crisp fold. Secure the open edge with a 1 cm seam. Mark guideline lines on the waistband for the elastic topstitching.
Cut the elastic to the required length according to the table. Insert the elastic into the waistband and distribute it evenly. Temporarily secure the elastic with a few long-baste stitches in several places. Then, stretching the waistband with the elastic, stitch along the marked lines to create even parallel rows. After stitching, carefully remove the temporary gathering stitches and steam out any basting (do not press the iron directly onto the elastic).
In the waistband insert sections that overlap the zipper, attach the insert to the waistband: first sew one side to the main waistband section with elastic, wrapping the waistband with the insert, and then sew the second side to form a neat waistband finish at the zipper area.
Step 9. Preparing the lining. Make a hanger loop and sew it to the back neck facing. Place the back facing and back lining right sides together and stitch the neckline with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches. Press seam allowances toward the lining.
Place the front facings right sides together with the front lining pieces and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches; press seam allowances toward the lining. Place the front and back lining right sides together and stitch the shoulder seams with a 1 cm seam allowance; press seams open.
Set the lining sleeves into the open armholes, matching notches. Then stitch the lining side seams and sleeve seams in one line with a 1 cm seam allowance; press seams open. At the lining sleeve hem, form a pleat toward the cuff closure and secure with a 0.5 cm stitch. Press the lining.
Step 10. Insert the zipper. Place the separating zipper to the right side of the center-front edge, spreading the waistband seam allowances, and stitch using a zipper foot. The bottom end of the zipper should align with the garment hem. In the waistband area, stitch the zipper only to the outer waistband insert; leave the inner part free.
Step 11. Attach the lining to the hem and zipper. Place the lining right sides together with the jacket and stitch the lining hem to the seam allowances of the waistband attachment seam, using the seam as a guide. First stitch the lining to the free edge of the waistband insert (with a backstitch near the insert seam), then stitch to the main waistband section with elastic, again along the seam allowances.
Secure the top end of the zipper by folding it at an angle toward the seam allowance. Place the facing right sides together with the zipper and stitch, spreading the waistband insert seam allowances and using the zipper stitching line as a guide. At the hem, the zipper should be wrapped by the waistband insert. Turn the zipper area right side out, shape corners, and press the facings.
Next, insert the lining sleeves into the jacket sleeves. At the sleeve hem, match the lining and sleeve seams, secure, and turn the sleeve to the wrong side. Place the lining sleeve hem and sleeve hem right sides together, matching seams, and stitch, using the cuff attachment seam as a guide. Turn the sleeve right side out and check that the lining is not twisted. At the section where the cuff is not attached, form a piping/turn of cloth (understitch/roll) to the lining and stitch with a 0.5 cm seam.
Step 12. Stand collar. Place the upper and lower stand pieces right sides together and stitch the top edge with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches. Start and end the stitching 1 cm above the lower edge of the stands. Clip the seam allowances in the curves, turn the collar right side out, carefully shape the rounded edge, and press on the edge.
Step 13. Stand-and-fall collar with tab. Fold the tab in half lengthwise, align the long edges, and stitch around the perimeter, leaving a small opening (1–2 cm) for turning. Trim corners, turn right side out, press, and topstitch around the perimeter 0.1 cm from the edge. Using the lower-collar pattern piece, transfer the tab placement marks to the lower collar. Attach the buckle to the right tab; secure the left tab symmetrically.
Place the upper and lower collar right sides together and stitch along the upper edge and the collar fall with a 1 cm seam allowance, slightly easing the upper collar. Start and end the stitching 1 cm above the lower edge. Trim corners, turn the collar right side out, roll the seam toward the lower collar, and press thoroughly.
Step 14. Sew the collar into the neckline. Both the stand-and-fall collar and the stand collar are attached using the same method. Place the lower collar right sides together with the garment neckline, matching center and shoulder notches as well as the collar fall points with the front-edge notches. Stitch the lower collar into the neckline with a 1 cm seam allowance.
Turn the neckline to the wrong side, place the upper collar right sides together with the back facing and front facings, and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches. Arrange the collar so that the seam allowances of the upper and lower collar attachment seams are pressed to opposite sides, then secure them together with a stay stitch as close as possible to the collar attachment seam. Turn the garment right side out and press the neckline and collar.
Step 15. Closing the lining hem.
Method I. Leave a turning opening in the lining seam of the left sleeve. Through it, turn the garment to the wrong side, stitch the lining to the seam allowances of the waistband attachment seam along the accessible length, then turn the jacket right side out and close the opening with invisible hand stitches.
Method II. Partially turn the hem through the unsewn section at the bottom. Stitch the lining hem to the seam allowances of the waistband attachment seam from the zipper to the side seam. Repeat on the other side of the zipper as far as the machine allows. Close the remaining small opening by hand with invisible stitches.
Step 16. Finishing. Using patterns or your own markings, mark snap (or buttonhole and button) placement on the front edge, cuffs, and flaps. Apply snaps or sew buttonholes and attach buttons. Additionally, tack the welt pocket bag to the facing, and tack the facing shoulder seam to the garment shoulder seam with a few hand stitches to prevent the lining from rolling to the outside.
Step 17. Final pressing. Press the finished garment carefully: neckline, collar, front edges, zipper area, yoke, sleeves, and waistband. Do not overheat areas with elastic and the buckle; use a pressing cloth. The jacket made with pattern 1098 is ready for fitting and wearing.