The women’s windbreaker made with pattern 3212 is designed for a height of 164–172 cm and standard women’s sizes. It is a lightweight outer jacket with a straight silhouette and moderate ease, featuring a dropped shoulder line so it can be comfortably worn over basic layers.
The model includes pleats on the front and back, a patch pocket on the front, shaped side slits along the side seams, a hood attached to a stand collar with a drawcord, and sleeves finished with elastic at the hem. The closure is a center-front separating zipper. This windbreaker pairs well with jeans, knit pants, or sporty outfits.
Ease is built into the pattern: approximately +10 cm at the bust and +4 cm at the hips for standard sizes, ensuring comfortable movement and allowing the windbreaker to be worn over several layers.
For sewing the windbreaker using pattern 3212, the following are recommended:
Approximate material requirements for the windbreaker using pattern 3212 are shown in the table below.
| Materials | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 | 62 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (width 1.5 m) | 1.65* | 1.65* | 1.70* | 1.85* | 1.90* | 1.90* | 1.95* | 2.00* | 2.20* | 2.20* | 2.20* |
| Elastic 2.5 cm, cm*2 | 18** | 18** | 19** | 19** | 20** | 20** | 21** | 21** | 22** | 23** | 23** |
| Zipper, cm | 64.5 | 65.5 | 66 | 67 | 67.5 | 68 | 69 | 70 | 70.5 | 71.5 | 72 |
* fabric consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, distortion, layout gaps, and other technical losses;
** elastic length is approximate and depends on the density and stretch of the elastic tape.
Before cutting, be sure to pre-shrink (decatize) the main fabric according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, and test for shrinkage and colorfastness. For water-repellent raincoat fabrics, use gentle steam and avoid overheating the fabric.
Carefully check whether pins and marking tools (chalk, markers, soap) leave traces on raincoat fabric. Test needles and marking tools on a small scrap before you begin.
When cutting, follow the grain direction and the layout from the technical documentation. Transfer all notches and markings to the pieces: pleat lines on the front and back, pocket placement, the shaped side-slit line, hood centers, grommet positions, and control marks for setting in the sleeves and sewing in the zipper.
According to the interfacing plan, apply fusible interfacing to:
Step 1. Forming pleats on the front
On the front piece, find the pleat markings (two parallel lines or notches on the pattern). Transfer them to the fabric with straight lines. Fold the piece so that one line aligns exactly with the other, and pin in place, ensuring pins do not leave marks on raincoat fabric. Stitch a topstitch along the pleat to secure its direction, then press the pleat downward.
Step 2. Back pleat
Transfer the pleat lines to the back piece in the same way. Fold the back along the pleat lines, pin “line to line,” and sew a topstitch to secure. Press the pleat downward while maintaining the volume provided by the design.
Step 3. Preparing the patch pocket
Reinforce the pocket opening hem with fusible interfacing. Overlock/finish the raw edge of the hem allowance, then press the hem to the wrong side. Next, fold the hem right sides together with the pocket along the fold line and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Repeat for the other side of the pocket.
Turn the hems to the right side, square up the corners, and press. Press the side seam allowances and the bottom allowance of the pocket—the bottom allowance will later go into the zipper seam or the hem seam (depending on the finishing option). Topstitch along the pocket opening to create a neat edge.
Step 4. Attaching the pocket to the front
On the front, mark the pocket outline using the pattern or auxiliary marking. Place the pocket on the front according to notches, align it with the marked lines, and be sure to check symmetry between the left and right pocket.
Pin the pocket in place and stitch along the side edges and, if required, along the bottom edge, keeping the edge even. Make sure the stitching does not distort the pocket or shift the pleat on the front.
Step 5. Shoulder seams
Place the fronts and back right sides together at the shoulder edges. Stitch the shoulder seams with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances. Press the seam allowances toward the back.
Step 6. Assembling and setting in the sleeves
Join the sleeve pieces, matching the notches that mark the sleeve front and the armhole placement. Stitch the sleeve seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, finish the seam allowances, and press. Then set the sleeve into the open armhole: match the front armhole notch on the front piece with the sleeve front notch, and also match the cap notches and the shoulder seam.
Sew the sleeve into the armhole with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances and press them toward the garment. From the right side, topstitch along the armhole about 0.1 cm from the seam to secure the seam allowances.
Step 7. Elastic at the sleeve hem
Cut the elastic to the required length according to the consumption table or individual measurements. Sew the elastic ends into a loop. Place the elastic on the wrong side of the sleeve hem and distribute it evenly around the circumference. While stretching the elastic, stitch it to the sleeve edge with an overlock stitch, without using the knife on the serger.
Then fold the sleeve hem up to form a casing and stitch along the edge of the fold with a straight stitch, again stretching the elastic under the presser foot. As a result, the sleeve retains its original width at the hem but is gathered by the elastic, creating a neat volume.
Step 8. Side seams and shaped slit
Before sewing the side seams, finish the side edges of the front and back with the seams pressed open, continuing slightly below the shaped slit notch. Place the garment right sides together, matching the side edges and sleeve seams.
Stitch the sleeve seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, continuing down the side seam to the shaped slit notch. At the notch, make a bartack/backstitch so the seam will not open. Press the seam allowances open, pressing only to the bartack level and not flattening the curve of the slit to preserve its shape.
Step 9. Finishing the sleeve hem after sewing the side seam
After the sleeve seams and side seams are joined, check the elastic position at the sleeve hem again. Unfold the previously formed hem and sew once more along the fold edge while stretching the elastic, to fully secure the elastic and casing. The sleeve hem should gather evenly all around.
Step 10. Assembling the lower hood
For the lower hood, join the side hood pieces to the center insert, matching notches. Place pieces right sides together and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances toward the side pieces or the insert (according to the technical documentation) and secure with topstitching about 0.1 cm from the seam.
Step 11. Assembling the upper hood and installing grommets
Similarly, stitch the upper hood pieces to the center insert. To avoid bulk, press seam allowances on the upper and lower hood in opposite directions and secure with topstitching on opposite pieces.
At grommet positions on the right side of the upper hood, additionally reinforce small areas with fusible interfacing. Punch holes and set the grommets according to the markings. Optionally prepare the hood drawcord—fabric, cord, or decorative.
Step 12. Attaching the upper hood to the neckline
Place the upper hood and the garment neckline right sides together. Match the hood center notch to the center back, and match the shoulder seam notches. Stitch the hood to the neckline with a 1 cm seam allowance, finish the seam allowances, and press them downward toward the garment.
Step 13. Joining the upper and lower hood
Place the upper and lower hood right sides together along the front edge. Align seams, notches, and the stand collar line. Stitch along the front edge with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances toward the lower hood and secure with topstitching about 0.1 cm from the seam, creating an under-roll toward the lower hood. Press the hood front edge so that only the upper hood is visible from the right side, with the lower hood slightly turned inward.
Step 14. Preparing the zipper
Before inserting the zipper, gently pre-shrink it: cover the tape with a pressing cloth and steam-press without touching the zipper directly with the hot iron soleplate. Check the garment front edge length and the zipper length. The front edge may be slightly longer than the zipper (about 0.5 cm); this small excess is evenly eased in during insertion.
Step 15. Sewing in the first zipper half
Place the zipper right side to the right side of the left front. The zipper tape should lie along the front edge, 1 cm from the raw edge (seam allowance). Start stitching from the hem upward, easing the front edge by about 0.5 cm along the zipper length. Sew the zipper with a zipper foot, following the tape edge.
At the top, fold the zipper “tail” neatly into the seam allowance and secure with stitching—any extra length can be trimmed later.
Step 16. Sewing in the second zipper half
Zip up the zipper. Align the right and left fronts and transfer all control points to the other side (waistline, pocket bottom edge, pleat seams, hood stand line). Unzip the zipper, place the second tape right sides together with the right front edge, and sew from bottom to top, carefully matching all transferred marks.
After sewing, zip the zipper again and check symmetry: pocket lines, pleats, and hem should match on both sides.
Step 17. Preparing facings and front facing
Place the front facing and neckline facing right sides together and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, forming one combined facing unit for the front edge and neckline; finish the raw edge. Connect the upper part of the front facing to the lower hood so that all inner seams are enclosed when turned.
Step 18. Attaching the facing to the zipper and stitching the neckline facing to the garment
With right sides together, stitch the front facing to the zipper tape using a zipper foot, following the existing zipper insertion seam as a guide. In the hood area, create an under-roll—slightly pull the lower hood to the wrong side so the seam allowances do not show from the right side.
Trim the excess zipper “tail” and clip corners slightly. Then change the presser foot and stitch the neckline facing to the garment with a 1 cm seam allowance around the perimeter, from one front edge to the other. Where the facing and upper edge bartacks meet, align points precisely so the garment turns out neatly.
After stitching, trim seam allowances on curves and corners, leaving about 0.2–0.3 cm. Turn the facing and front facing to the wrong side, carefully shape the corners, and baste the hem and front edges with a slight under-roll to the inside. Press.
Step 19. Securing the lower hood and facing
To enclose inner seam allowances and secure the lower hood, fold the hood insertion seam allowance so it is hidden between the hood layers and the facing. Through the technical opening (near the zipper), turn out a small section and stitch the lower hood to the seam allowances of the upper hood insertion seam, aligning with the existing stitch line.
Then topstitch from the right side: along the hood about 3.5 cm from the front edge, along the zipper about 0.5 cm from the zipper seam, and along the hem also about 3.5 cm from the edge. This stitching simultaneously secures the facing and lower hood and creates a decorative outline.
Step 20. Hanger loop and hood drawcord
If desired, make a hanger loop from a strip of main or lining fabric and sew it to the inside neckline facing at the center back before closing everything completely.
Thread the drawcord through the grommets in the hood. The cord ends can be finished with knots or decorative cord stops.
Step 21. Final pressing
Gently press the garment, avoiding overheating raincoat fabric: use a medium temperature and a pressing cloth. Pay special attention to pleats on the front and back, armholes, the zipper line, the hood, the neckline facing, and the shaped side slits.
Check how the windbreaker zips up, make sure the front edges are symmetrical, the hem is not twisted, and the elasticated sleeves fit comfortably at the wrist. The windbreaker made with pattern 3212 is ready to wear.