Patterns 1108 and 1109 are unisex children’s robes with a straight silhouette for heights 104–158 cm. Both designs are intended for soft pile fabrics such as Velsoft terry and work equally well for boys and girls.
The robe made with pattern 1108 is a wrap style with a cut-on shawl collar, a set-in one-piece sleeve, patch pockets on the front, and a belt. The garment hem and sleeve hems are finished with a turned-up hem.
The robe made with pattern 1109 is also a wrap style with set-in sleeves and patch pockets, but it features a separate classic band/trim along the neckline and front edges. The garment hem and sleeve hems are turned up and topstitched.
Both models have a comfortable fit with ease, and are secured at the waist with a belt that runs through soft belt loops. This cut makes the robe comfortable to wear and lets it “grow” with the child.
For robes made with patterns 1108 and 1109, it is recommended to use:
For terry and Velsoft, interfacing is usually not required. If the fabric is very soft or stretchy, you can fuse a lightweight interfacing locally in the areas for the hanger loop or belt loops.
| Materials | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 | 134 | 140 | 146 | 152 | 158 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (width 1.8 m) | 0.90* | 0.95* | 1.05* | 1.05* | 1.10* | 1.20* | 1.40* | 1.60* | 1.65* | 1.70* |
| Materials | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 | 134 | 140 | 146 | 152 | 158 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (width 1.8 m) | 0.80* | 0.80* | 0.90* | 1.00* | 1.10* | 1.25* | 1.30* | 1.35* | 1.45* | 1.55* |
* Fabric requirements are given without allowances for shrinkage, skew, matching, layout gaps, and other production losses.
Before cutting, pre-shrink the fabric: steam it or wash it according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, dry it, and press it through a pressing cloth without flattening the pile. Check the fabric for defects, even pile, and the direction of any pattern.
When laying out the pattern pieces, make sure the pile runs in the same direction on all pieces—this ensures an even color and texture across the whole garment.
Transfer all notches and markings from the pattern to the fabric: pocket placement lines, the waistline for the belt loops, the hem fold line for the robe and sleeves, and balance notches on the armholes and sleeve caps. For robe 1108, also transfer the mark at the intersection of the neckline and shoulder seam where you will need to clip the seam allowance when attaching the shawl collar.
For most terry fabrics, interfacing is optional. If needed (very soft or stretchy fabric), locally fuse a lightweight knit interfacing in the areas for the hanger loop or belt loops.
Recommended seam allowance for both models is 0.8 cm. At the robe hem and sleeve hems, add a larger allowance for turning: approximately 4 cm at the garment hem and 3 cm at the sleeve hem.
Step 1. Cutting. After preparing the fabric, cut all robe pieces (fronts, back, sleeves, band or shawl collar, belt, belt loops; and, if needed, a facing for 1108), taking into account the grainline and pile direction. On all pieces, the pile should run downward. Keep 0.8 cm seam allowances on joining edges and larger allowances at the garment hem and sleeve hems.
Step 2. Patch pockets on the fronts. Using the front pattern piece, transfer the pocket outline and placement marks. Overlock/serge the pocket top edge. Fold the top hem along the notches right sides together and stitch the short side edges of the hem with a 1 cm seam. Turn the hem to the wrong side, carefully shaping the corners, then topstitch along the pocket top edge, close to the fold (about 0.1 cm from the fold). Do not press the side and bottom pocket allowances in advance—these will be turned in while attaching the pocket.
Position the pocket on the front along the marked lines so that the pocket opening faces the center front. While stitching, turn the side and bottom allowances to the inside to match the marked outline, smooth the pocket, and stitch one side edge and the bottom edge with a narrow topstitch (about 0.1 cm). Additionally, secure the pocket near the side seam with a second row of stitching (about 0.5 cm from the edge) so the top corner won’t pull away during wear.
Step 3. Belt loops. Cut a strip from the main fabric for the belt loops. Overlock/serge one long edge. Fold the strip into thirds so the raw (unserged) edge is enclosed, and stitch down the center to secure all layers. Cut the strip into two loops of the required length.
Fold each loop in half and place it at the waistline, aligning with the notches near the side seam area. The loop ends should point forward and backward from the side seam so the belt can slide freely. Baste the loops within the seam allowance so they will be caught in the seam during assembly.
Step 4. Join shoulder seams (1109). Place the fronts and back of robe 1109 right sides together. Stitch the shoulder seams with a 1 cm seam. Finish the seam allowances and press them toward the back.
Step 5. Set in sleeves and sew side seams (1109). Insert sleeves into the open armhole. Place the sleeve right sides together with the armhole, matching the notches: the front sleeve notch aligns with the front notch on the robe front; the center cap notch aligns with the shoulder seam. Stitch with a 0.8 cm seam.
Then fold the robe right sides together and stitch the side seams and sleeve seams in one continuous seam, matching notches and the underarm intersection. Press the seam allowances toward the back.
Step 6. Finish sleeve hems (1109). Finish the sleeve hem edge. Turn the sleeve hem to the inside by 3 cm (use the notches or a pre-marked line), smooth without twisting. Topstitch along the hem, close to the folded edge (you may stitch along the finished edge), securing the hem.
Step 7. Prepare the band (1109). Place the band pieces right sides together and stitch the short center seam where the pattern indicates the notch. Then fold the band lengthwise in half with right sides inside and stitch the lower edges, forming square corners. Turn the lower part of the band right side out and carefully shape the corners.
To prevent the band from shifting while sewing, stabilize the long edges: align the layers and raw edges, then stitch a helper seam about 0.5 cm from the edge, starting at the center seam and sewing in both directions with the pile direction. This reduces layer “creep” on terry.
Step 8. Attach the band to the neckline and front edges (1109). Mark the robe hem fold line on the front; the lower edge of the band should reach this line. Place the band on the right side of the garment, matching the band notches with the notches along the front edges and neckline; the bottom of the band aligns with the hem fold line.
Stitch the band to the front edges and neckline with a 0.8 cm seam, starting at the bottom of one front, going around the neckline, and ending at the bottom of the other front. It is best to stitch from the center toward the ends following the pile direction. Make a hanger loop from lining fabric (a small loop folded into quarters) and insert it into the seam at the center back neckline. The loop ends go into the seam allowance and the loop extends outward. Stitch it in place together with the band.
Press the seam allowances of the attached band toward the garment.
Step 9. Hem the bottom of robe 1109. Wrap the bottom end of the band with the garment hem allowance: on the wrong side, arrange the hem so it covers the band’s lower edge, and stitch the hem to the band, following the band attachment seam.
Next, on the wrong side, mark the stitching line for securing the hem edge along the robe bottom. If the finished hem is 4 cm, measure 8 cm from the marked hem line—this is the width of the fold plus the securing stitch. Turn up the robe hem along the marked line, distribute the fabric evenly, pin or baste, and stitch the hem edge all around.
Step 10. Belt (for both 1108 and 1109). Fold the belt piece right sides together lengthwise and stitch along the long and short open edges, leaving a small turning opening on one of the long sides. Turn the belt right side out, shape the corners, and press. Close the opening with hand slip-stitches or a neat edge stitch. If desired, topstitch around the belt perimeter 0.1–0.2 cm from the edge.
Step 11. Final pressing for robe 1109. Carefully press the front edges with the band, the hem, and sleeves using a pressing cloth so the pile is not crushed. Check band symmetry and front lengths, remove basting and loose threads, and brush the pile with a soft brush in the pile direction.
For robe 1108, make the pockets (Step 2), belt loops (Step 3), and belt (Step 10) in the same way. Then proceed with the steps specific to the cut-on shawl collar.
Step 12. Prepare the shawl collar (1108). In pattern 1108, the shawl collar is an extension of the front edge and has a center back seam. Place the front pieces with the collar right sides together and stitch the center collar seam at the back with a 1 cm seam, matching notches.
Using the front pattern piece, transfer the mark at the shoulder area where the neckline transitions into the collar. Clip the seam allowance at this point, stopping about 0.3 cm before the stitching line. This will allow you to spread the allowances and neatly sew the collar together with the shoulder seams.
Step 13. Join fronts and back with the shawl collar, then sleeves and side seams (1108). Place the fronts and back of robe 1108 right sides together. In one seam (1 cm), stitch one shoulder seam up to the marked point, then open the clipped allowance and continue stitching along the neckline while joining the collar; then open the allowance again and stitch the second shoulder seam to the end. Press shoulder seam allowances toward the back.
Place the sleeve right sides together with the armhole, match notches, and stitch the sleeve into the open armhole as in Step 5. Then fold the robe right sides together and stitch the side seams and sleeve seams in one continuous seam, matching notches and seam intersections. Press seam allowances toward the back. Finish sleeve hems with a turned-up hem as in Step 6, and finish the robe bottom raw edge.
Step 14. Finish the shawl collar and facing (1108). Place the upper and under collar right sides together and stitch along the upper edge and outer edge, matching center seams and notches. Stitch from the collar center to both sides with the pile direction, carefully easing the upper collar over the shaped edge of the under collar. Finish (overlock/serge) the lower edge of the upper collar and the facing edges.
Topstitch along the upper collar edge, 1–1.5 cm from the edge. Stitch from the center to both sides with the pile direction, ending where the collar ends. Place the facings right sides together with the fronts, aligning notches, and stitch along the lower edge at the hem fold line. Turn the facings right side out, shape the corners, and topstitch along the hem fold, close to the edge.
Make a hanger loop from lining fabric and secure it at the center back neckline, inserting the loop ends into the seam allowances. Turn the seam allowances of the under collar attachment toward the collar, place the upper collar on top, and stitch it down by stitching in the seam (stitch-in-the-ditch) along the under collar attachment seam toward the neckline. Continuing the same stitching line, secure the facing along the collar and front edge, following the inner edge of the facing. Start at the collar center seam and stitch in both directions with the pile direction.
Step 15. Hem the bottom and final pressing for robe 1108. Hem the robe bottom as in Step 9: mark the hem fold line, turn up the hem to the required width, secure, and stitch the hem edge all around. Carefully press the robe through a pressing cloth, paying attention to the collar, front edge, hem, and sleeves. Thread the belt through the waist loops, brush the pile in the correct direction, and remove any remaining basting.
Robes made with patterns 1108 and 1109 are ready for fitting and wear. Thanks to the soft terry, well-placed belt loops, and relaxed silhouette, these robes will be comfortable for a child for several seasons.