Women’s jacket pattern 3214 is a coat-style jacket with a straight silhouette and moderate flare toward the hem of the garment and sleeves. The model is designed for drapey coat fabrics, including coat-weight alpaca. Side panels shape the silhouette and include pockets. The collar is a stand collar, and the center-front closure is a zipper. The jacket is fully lined.
The pattern is available in sizes 42–62 for height 164–172 cm. The model is comfortable to wear and pairs well with both skirts and classic trousers.
Main fabrics:
Lining:
Interfacing / stabilizers:
Notions:
Fabric and notions consumption is given for a fabric width of 1.5 m.
| Materials / Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 | 62 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (1.5 m width) | 1.60* | 1.60* | 1.70* | 1.75* | 1.75* | 1.80* | 1.90* | 1.90* | 1.95* | 2.00* | 2.05* |
| Lining (1.5 m width) | 1.05* | 1.10* | 1.15* | 1.20* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.30* | 1.30* | 1.35* | 1.40* | 1.45* |
| Interfacing (1.5 m width) | 0.70* | 0.70* | 0.70* | 0.70* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.75* | 0.80* | 0.80* |
| Zipper length, cm | 67.5 | 68 | 69 | 69.5 | 70 | 71 | 72 | 72.5 | 73 | 74 | 75 |
* consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, skewing, gaps, and other technical losses;
** elastic tape length in general recommendations is approximate and depends on elasticity and density (not used in this model).
Before cutting, be sure to preshrink/decatize the coat fabric (steam or press with steam, let it dry completely and rest), check the fabric for flaws, and watch the nap direction—on all pieces the nap should run downward. The same applies to the fabric’s pattern or texture.
Transfer all notches, match points, and lines from the pattern (especially hem-fold lines, pocket placement, pocket opening boundaries, and the points where the side seam meets the sleeve seam for inserting the panels).
After cutting, prepare the interfacing pieces:
Attention. If you are sewing the model from heavy alpaca on a knit base that noticeably sags under its own weight, it is advisable to lengthen the front facing, sleeve lining, and jacket hem lining by 1.5–2 cm.
Step 1. Cutting and fusing the main pieces.
Cut the pieces from the main fabric, lining, and fusible materials according to pattern 3214, taking into account grainline and nap direction. Fuse the front facings and the back neck facing. Make sure the nap on all pieces is directed downward.
Step 2. Fusing hems, seams, and clips.
Fuse the hem areas of the front, back, sleeves, and side panels. Use bias fusible tape to stabilize shoulder seams, outer and inner sleeve seams, and side seams, leaving the pocket opening unfused (follow the notches). Stabilize the pocket opening on the front with straight-grain tape, stepping back about 0.5 cm from the side seam. Use the same straight-grain tape to stabilize the front edge. Fuse the neckline of the front and back with straight-grain tape; clip the tape at curves so it lies flat. On the front and back pattern pieces, find the point where the side seam intersects the sleeve seam, transfer this point to the cut pieces, and clip the seam allowance up to the marked point, leaving about 0.3 cm uncut.
Step 3. Preparing and sewing the side panels.
On the garment side panels and sleeve panel inserts, stabilize the side edges with bias fusible tape, again leaving the pocket opening area unfused. Stabilize the pocket opening with straight-grain tape, stepping back about 0.5 cm from the edge. Place the garment panel and sleeve panel right sides together and stitch the short edge with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches; press the seam allowances open. Next, place the front and back right sides together and stitch the shoulder seam and the outer (upper) sleeve seam in one continuous seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches; press open. Pin the prepared panel assembly right sides together to the front and back, then stitch along the side seams and the lower (inner) sleeve seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching points, notches, and aligning the panel seam with the clipped areas on the front and back. When sewing the side seams, leave the pocket opening unstitched between the notches. Press the seam allowances of the inserted panels open; press the sleeve hem fold along the marked line, following the notches.
Step 4. In-seam pockets.
Place the pocket bag from the main fabric right sides together with the seam allowance of the side panel (side piece) along the pocket opening, matching notches, and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, aligning raw edges; start and stop the stitching at the notches. Then place the pocket bag from the lining fabric right sides together with the seam allowance of the front side seam along the pocket opening and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches. Align the pocket bag edges and stitch the two pocket bags together with a 1 cm seam allowance to form the pocket. Press the garment hem again along the fold line, following the notches.
Step 5. Stand collar.
Press the collar stand piece in half along the lengthwise fold. Place one side of the stand right sides together with the garment neckline (front and back), matching notches, and sew with a 1 cm seam allowance. When sewing, pay attention to nap direction: the nap on the stand should be directed downward toward the neckline, the same as on the other jacket pieces.
Step 6. Installing the zipper.
Place the separating zipper on the right side of the center-front edges of the fronts, from the pressed hem fold up to the middle of the collar stand, aligning with notches, and secure. Stitch the zipper on the sewing machine. If the zipper is longer than required, shorten the top end: fold it at about a 45° angle into the seam allowance and secure with bar tacks so the zipper ends are neatly enclosed inside the stand.
Step 7. Sewing the lining.
Place the front facing right sides together with the front lining and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches; press the seam allowances toward the lining. Place the back lining pieces right sides together and stitch the center back seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, repeating the fold shape from the pattern; press the seam allowances to one side (usually to the right half). Place the back neck facing right sides together with the back lining, stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches, and press the seam allowances toward the lining. Sew a hanger loop to the center back neckline of the facing. Next, place the front lining right sides together with the back lining and stitch the shoulder seam and the outer sleeve seam in one continuous seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches; press open. Place the garment side panel lining right sides together with the sleeve panel lining and stitch the short edge with a 1 cm seam allowance; press open. On the front and back lining patterns, again find the points where the side seam meets the sleeve seam, transfer them to the fabric, and clip the seam allowance to the mark, leaving 0.3 cm uncut. Place the panel lining right sides together with the front and back lining, match notches and seams, and stitch along the side seams and sleeve seams with a 1 cm seam allowance; press seam allowances toward the panel.
Step 8. Attaching the lining to the garment.
Place the jacket and lining right sides together. First stitch the lining to the collar stand along the neckline with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching notches. Then, matching seams and pressed folds, stitch the garment hem to the lining hem with a 1 cm seam allowance. On one side (typically starting with the right front), stitch the front edge to the facing along the front edge line, aligning with the zipper-stitching line; make sure the seam allowances at the hem and stand are spread and not turned. When stitching the facing, fold the bottom of the front edge along the fold line, and fold the stand along the fold line, following notches, to form a neat corner. Trim the seam allowances at the stand corner and turn this side to the right side. To finish the other front edge, turn it through the sleeve, place the front edge and facing right sides together, stitch along the zipper-stitching line, trim the stand corner again, and turn. Leave a turning opening in the left sleeve lining about 12 cm long—this will be used to turn the sleeve hem and to hand-finish.
Step 9. Securing the collar.
Through the sleeve, turn the seam allowances of the collar-stand attachment seam to the inside, spread them, and align the garment and lining seam allowances. Measure about 3 cm from the edge of the stand and stitch the seam allowances together, sewing as close as possible to the collar attachment seam. This prevents the stand from rolling outward and ensures a neat fit around the neck.
Step 10. Securing the hem, pocket bags, and sleeve hems.
Turn the garment hem through the sleeve and the turning opening, fold the hem along the previously pressed line, and hand-stitch with slip stitches along the entire length, following the fold line. Then smooth the lining and pocket bag, pin the points where they should be secured to the lining and facing, cut two lining strips about 6 cm wide, and sew them in, connecting the pocket bag to the lining and facing—this prevents the pocket from sagging inside the garment. To finish the sleeve hems, pull the sleeve hem out through the turning opening, place the sleeve hem and sleeve lining hem right sides together, matching seams (including the panel seam), and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Turn the sleeve right side out, check that nothing is twisted, form the hem fold along the pressed line, and pin. Pull the sleeve hem out again through the opening and hand-stitch the sleeve hem with slip stitches.
Step 11. Finishing.
Turn the jacket to the right side, check seam quality, hem symmetry, and sleeve length. Close the turning opening in the sleeve lining with slip stitches. Do final pressing, steaming seams carefully and avoiding pressing the nap directly with the iron (use a pressing cloth if needed). The jacket made with pattern 3214 is ready for fitting and wear.