Pattern 3232 is a women’s shearling-style jacket with a straight silhouette and moderate ease. The model features a set-in two-piece sleeve with a cuff, a stand-and-fall collar, a separating zipper closure, and a zip pocket on the front. The back includes a yoke and shaped seams.
The pattern is designed for bonded shearling (faux shearling) with a pile height of about 7–9 mm. Seam allowances are drawn on the pattern pieces, including self-facing hems (these finish as visible open edges, so cutting accuracy is critical).
Tool tip: use leather needles, clips instead of pins (where possible), a walking foot or Teflon foot, and small sharp scissors for trimming pile from seam allowances. To help the presser foot glide on the “leather” side, you can lightly apply a clear balm (e.g., lip balm) on seam allowances or the edge that touches the foot.
| Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 | 62 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.5 m width | 1,50* | 1,50* | 1,65* | 1,65* | 1,65* | 1,70* | 1,75* | 1,75* | 1,75* | 1,90* | 1,90* |
| Lining 1.5 m width | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* |
| Interfacing 1.5 m width | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* | 0,25* |
| Separating zipper, cm | 51 | 51,5 | 52 | 53 | 53,5 | 54 | 54,5 | 55 | 56 | 56,5 | 57 |
* Consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, pile/print direction, distortion, gaps, and other technological losses.
Step 1. Set up your thread: place a thread matching the pile in the bobbin to keep underside stitching discreet. For topstitching, use a heavier thread or double it to get a more textured seam.
Step 2. Sew the sleeve along the elbow seam with a 1 cm seam allowance. To reduce bulk, make a securing “understitch” on the seam allowance: trim part of the upper sleeve seam allowance and stitch on the seam allowance, then press the seam allowances open as much as the material allows.
Step 3. Lightly apply a balm on the seam allowance side to help feeding, then sew topstitching on the sleeve. Next, sew the front sleeve seam. In tight areas, extra topstitching is optional—focus on clean, even edges.
Step 4. Prepare the sleeve’s self-facing cuff/hem. For a 5 cm hem, mark a guide line at 10 cm from the edge. Trim tiny “corners” from seam allowances so they won’t peek on the right side.
Step 5. Sew the cuff corner using the open-edge method: on shaped seams/hem areas with a 5 cm allowance, mark a point at 6 cm from the hem edge. Sew up to this point, secure, then clip into the seam to the securing stitches (leave about 1 mm uncut). Turn the allowance, align the visible open edge precisely, and stitch to form a clean corner.
Step 6. Trim one side of the cuff allowance to reduce thickness, turn and sew topstitching on the cuff. Then secure the sleeve hem with a line of stitching 0.3 cm from the edge along the marked guide line (it’s easier if you position the cuff “wrong side toward you” under the machine).
Step 7. Attach the cuff to the sleeve with a 1 cm seam allowance, matching the notch at the center of the lower sleeve to the cuff seam. Trim bulk on the cuff allowance, turn the sleeve, and topstitch the cuff, keeping stitching as discreet as possible on the pile side.
Step 8. Sew the back shaped seams. For areas with visible open edges, use the same control-point method (sew to 6 cm, clip to securing stitches, turn allowances, align the open edge precisely). Add topstitching where needed, trimming the seam allowance on the side that would otherwise add thickness.
Step 9. Attach the back yoke. Spread the seam allowances, remove excess bulk from the yoke seam allowance, and add topstitching along the yoke.
Step 10. Prepare the collar with a self-facing hem: if the hem is 4 cm, mark a guide line at 8 cm. Sew collar corners very accurately with a 1 cm seam allowance, spread seam allowances, turn corners, and secure the hem with a line of stitching 0.3 cm along the guide line. Use thread colors that blend with the pile/material.
Step 11. Prepare pocket zippers: finished zipper length should be 16 cm. If your zipper is longer (e.g., 18 cm), shorten it from the top: trim, create an upper stop with securing stitches/hand stitches, and add stoppers if needed.
Step 12. Make the pocket frames from a pile-free base (eco-leather / the “leather” side of the bonded shearling). Separate the pile in this area. Cut 4 frame pieces, fold each in half, and stitch at 0.5 cm. Sew the frame to the zipper, using the fold stitch line as an alignment guide.
Step 13. Transfer pocket markings: on the front side panel mark the frame placement and the pocket-bag alignment line. Transfer the frame outline onto the pocket bag. Reinforce the pocket bag in the frame area with interfacing and finish the pocket-bag edges in a suitable way (serger/zigzag/binding—depending on your pocket-bag fabric).
Step 14. Place the pocket bag to the marked line and stitch around the frame. Cut the opening: from the center to both ends and into the corners at 45°, stopping 1 mm before the stitching.
Step 15. Trim the pile out of the seam allowances carefully: clear the allowance and 5–8 mm beyond the stitch line on the garment piece without damaging the base. Turn the pocket bag inward and hand-baste the frame with a turn of about 0.1 cm. Press gently from the wrong side only if your material allows (test on a scrap first).
Step 16. Place the zipper under the frame and secure it with topstitching around the frame (use the frame stitching as a guide). Add the facing so it covers the pocket bag (make the facing slightly larger). Sew the facing to the pocket bag and shape the pocket bag.
Step 17. Insert twill tape (about 15–20 cm; longer for larger sizes) into the designated area between layers to reinforce. Stitch the pocket bag closed with a 1 cm seam, keeping edges neat and even.
Step 18. Sew the center front pieces to the side panels along the shaped seams. On the side without zipper, work like on the back: sew to the control point, clip, turn allowances to form a clean open edge, then topstitch along the side panel, trimming bulk from the center front side.
Step 19. On the side with the separating zipper, mark the zipper top, the lapel/turnback fold line, and the hem line. Sew one zipper tape to the shaped seam (or to the center front piece—depending on construction), starting from the fold line upward so the top aligns cleanly in the turnback.
Step 20. Sew the other zipper tape to the matching front piece. Check alignment at hem and top marks. Then sew the shaped seam with the side panel, form the hem corner with the same open-edge method, turn the allowance to the side panel, and add topstitching.
Step 21. Sew the side seams and shoulder seams. Spread seam allowances and remove bulk (trimming pile from allowances makes topstitching easier and keeps the edges crisp).
Step 22. Make the collar straps. Cut 2 strips from the base side (separate the pile), reinforce with interfacing. Final strap width matches the buckle (guide: 2.5 cm). Fold edges inward onto fusible, following the marked lines for accuracy. The right strap is longer; the left strap is shorter (with the buckle).
Step 23. Sew the right strap so the corner turns neatly: transfer markings, fold right sides together, sew on the line, secure in the center, turn, and topstitch at 0.1 cm. Make the underlayer slightly shorter to reduce thickness where it attaches to the collar.
Step 24. For the left strap, create an opening for the buckle tongue, insert the buckle, sew the layers together, and topstitch as far as your machine allows. Add a few hand securing stitches if needed to prevent the buckle from shifting.
Step 25. Mark strap placement on the collar. Use the collar center (excluding seam allowances) and transfer marks symmetrically. Fuse the seam allowance area where the strap will be attached (butt the fusible edges to avoid extra thickness).
Step 26. Attach the straps with a stitched “box” and diagonals, planning the stitching so topstitch lines don’t stack on top of each other. Use matching threads: top thread in the leather color, bobbin thread in the pile color. Hide thread tails, and fluff the pile slightly to camouflage micro-stitching.
Step 27. Install 3 eyelets on the collar: close the collar as it will be worn, mark the center eyelet at the overlap point, then mark two more about 4 cm to each side. Reinforce the eyelet zones with interfacing.
Step 28. Sew the collar into the neckline: place the collar pile side up, with “leather to leather”. Match center marks, shoulder marks, and notches. Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance from mark to mark according to the neckline construction.
Step 29. For a clean neckline finish, true up the seam allowance line (keep it very straight), stopping about 1 mm before the securing stitches at the end. Trim the lower neckline seam allowance and reduce bulk at the collar hem so the dark base doesn’t show on the right side. Turn the collar seam allowance onto the jacket right side and topstitch along the neckline to secure. Place securing stitches about 5 mm away from the visible edge so they are less noticeable.
Step 30. Shape the front/hem corners on the side with turnbacks: sew seam allowances along the marked corner with a 1 cm seam, turn and spread allowances. True up the hem edge to be perfectly straight and snip seam-allowance corners.
Step 31. Mark the hem fold: for a 5 cm hem, place guide marks at 10 cm. Mark along the hem and along the areas where the hem transitions into the front/lapel.
Step 32. Finish the zipper edge with a binding strip: sew a narrow strip (guide width 2.5–3 cm) to the seam allowance near the zipper so it forms a neat binding once turned. Trim bulk under the zipper and in the binding strip, form the corner, and secure it by stitching along the zipper seam line.
Step 33. Secure the binding along the zipper: it’s easiest to hand-baste the binding first, aligning it evenly along the zipper tape edge. Then sew by machine while pushing the pile away from the foot. Start stitching about 0.5 cm in so securing stitches are covered by the seam allowance.
Step 34. Stitch all hems along the bottom edge and fronts using the guide marks. Work in short segments, matching shaped seams and side seams. At the zipper, align the hem right up to the tape, pivot carefully at corners, and place securing stitches in discreet spots.
Step 35. Set sleeves into armholes: match the sleeve-cap notch to the shoulder seam, the lower-sleeve notch to the side seam, and the front/back notches accordingly. Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance. If desired, add decorative topstitching along the sleeve cap: measure from the shoulder center, fold the seam allowance toward the garment, and sew a neat line along the armhole area.
Step 36. Final finish: remove pile that may get caught in the zipper, check symmetry of fronts and hem, erase any markings with steam (without pressing the iron onto the right-side areas), and gently press from the wrong side where the material allows.