This tutorial is suitable for pattern 3233 — a women’s lined faux-fur coat. The silhouette is straight, the sleeve is a set-in one-piece sleeve, and the front has a bust dart. The collar is a stand-and-fall collar with lapels. Fastening — sew-on snap buttons.
Available sizes: 42–58 (height 164–172).
| Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric (faux fur) 1.5 m wide | 1.30* | 1.30* | 1.40* | 1.55* | 1.60* | 1.60* | 1.60* | 1.70* | 1.70* |
| Lining 1.5 m wide | 1.20* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.30* | 1.30* | 1.30* | 1.30* | 1.30* | 1.30* |
| Fusible interfacing 1.5 m wide | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* |
| Accent fabric (eco-leather) 1.5 m wide | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* | 0.40* |
* consumption is given without extra allowance for pile direction, prints, skew, spacing, and other technological losses
Step 1. Transfer all notches and control marks from the pattern. On faux fur, it’s convenient to mark from the wrong side (on the backing) and use small notches in the allowances.
Step 2. Cut the coat pieces from faux fur in a single layer, cutting right and left sides separately. While cutting, slice only the backing, not the pile.
Step 3. Prepare seam allowances: on areas with 1 cm allowances, carefully trim the pile out of the allowance and comb the pile. This reduces bulk at the front edge, collar, and hem.
Step 4. Fuse stay tape to the required edges (armhole, shoulder, neckline, front edge, collar — as per the pattern). While fusing, tuck the pile under the backing and press with the iron edge, avoiding contact with the pile.
Step 5. Mark and sew the bust darts on the fronts. Press the dart allowances toward the center front (follow the pattern).
Step 6. Prepare the collar/stand pieces (as per the pattern): sew the required seams on the stand, ensuring the pile stays out of the stitching line.
Step 7. Place the front and back right sides together and sew the side seams with the allowance specified on the pattern (often 0.3 cm for faux fur). Keep the pile away from the needle (clips/pins help).
Step 8. Sew the shoulder seams (often 0.3 cm). Typically, no clipping is needed if a small allowance is specified on the pattern.
Step 9. Sew the collar/stand into the neckline of the outer coat, matching notches. Check lapel symmetry and neckline shaping.
Step 10. Comb out all faux-fur seams along pile direction. If pile is caught in the stitching, pull it out carefully with a needle from the right side so the seam becomes almost invisible.
Step 11. Move on to the lining. Sew the center back seam of the lining following the curved line marked on the pattern. Form the ease pleat (as designed) and press it.
Step 12. Sew a hanger loop to the back facing neckline (or into the neckline seam allowance, whichever is more convenient).
Step 13. Prepare eco-leather pieces (facings/parts of the front facing) and fuse where required. Then sew the front facing parts together (eco-leather + lining-facing part) with a 1 cm allowance and press allowances toward the lining side.
Step 14. On the lining front, sew the bust dart and press it toward the center front.
Step 15. Sew the facing to the lining front, matching notches. Mark the intersection point of allowances (front edge/shoulder) and secure with a backstitch — this helps form a clean corner and avoids distortion.
Step 16. Prepare the hem facing (eco-leather). Sew the hem facing to the lining hem, but leave a large turning opening for turning and hand-finishing. With bulky faux fur, a small opening can overstress the lining.
Step 17. Assemble the lining: sew shoulder and side seams. Press allowances toward the back.
Step 18. Sew the collar stand/upper collar part to the lining neckline (matching notches). It can be convenient to sew the shoulder seam and attach the stand in one continuous seam if the construction allows.
Step 19. Lightly press the lining (set heat according to lining fabric).
Step 20. Before joining outer and lining, sew on one half of the sew-on snaps to the right facing. For a 3 cm overlap, it’s convenient to mark 4 cm from the front edge cut (3 cm + 1 cm seam allowance). Place snaps vertically based on the pattern/try-on.
Step 21. Join lining to outer coat at the hem: place right sides together, match side seams and centers, fold the pile inward so it doesn’t get caught, and sew with a 1 cm allowance.
Step 22. Press seam allowances toward the hem facing and sew a securing stitch on the facing at 0.1 cm to hold allowances in place (stitch on the facing, not on the fur).
Step 23. Join lining to outer coat along the front edge and collar: right sides together, fold the pile inward, and sew with a 1 cm allowance. On the collar, ease the upper collar slightly onto the lower collar if needed for a good roll.
Step 24. Trim bulk at corners carefully and grade allowances if needed. Turn the coat through the opening.
Step 25. Shape corners with your finger and a needle (gently). Then comb out the pile along the front edge, collar, and hem, and pull out any trapped pile with a needle.
Step 26. From the inside, press allowances toward the facing and sew a decorative/edgestitch line on the facing (eco-leather/hem facing) at 0.1 cm where the design requires. Do not topstitch on the fur itself.
Step 27. Close the turning opening with hand stitches.
Step 28. Add hand tacks between the facing and the outer layer so the front edge lays neatly and doesn’t “flop”: use hidden stitches catching seam allowances, leaving a little ease (do not pull tight).
Step 29. Mark snap positions for the left side: close the coat as it will be worn, align hems, and transfer points with a needle. Sew on the snaps, preferably without catching the facing (or catch it intentionally if you want extra stability).
Step 30. Secure collar seam allowances by hand along the neckline: when allowances differ (e.g., 1 cm vs 0.3 cm), align them and tack only along the neckline; keep the lapel area free so it rolls naturally.
Step 31. Sleeves. Prepare the sleeve hem facings (eco-leather): sew the facing to the sleeve lining and press allowances toward the lining. Then attach the facing to the faux-fur sleeve hem the same way as the coat hem: fold pile away and sew neatly.
Step 32. Press allowances toward the facing and sew a securing stitch on the facing at 0.1 cm.
Step 33. Sew the sleeve seam in faux fur with a 0.3 cm allowance (if specified). Sew the sleeve lining seam with a 1 cm allowance and leave an opening for turning/handwork in the left sleeve (at least 20 cm; larger is often easier).
Step 34. Turn the sleeve, pin the facing in a few places, and secure allowances with hand stitches from the inside so the facing doesn’t roll out.
Step 35. Set the sleeve into the outer coat armhole using a 0.3 cm allowance, matching notches. Due to thickness, it may be easier to baste by hand first, then sew on the machine.
Step 36. Set the lining sleeve into the lining armhole using a 1 cm allowance, matching notches.
Step 37. Turn the coat through the sleeve lining opening, check sleeve hang and twisting. If needed, hand-tack the shoulder area between lining and outer coat so the lining doesn’t shift.
Step 38. Close the sleeve lining opening with hand stitches.
Step 39. Final finishing: comb out seams on the faux fur, check snap alignment, and verify front edge and collar symmetry.
Step 40. Final pressing: do not press the pile. If needed, work carefully from the wrong side (on the backing/lining) using a pressing cloth and low heat, without heavy pressure.