Pattern 2034 is a men’s shearling-style jacket with a straight silhouette and moderate ease. The sleeve is set-in, two-piece, with a cuff. The neckline features a stand-and-fall collar. The front has a princess seam with a zip pocket built into the seam. The back includes a yoke and princess seams. The jacket closes with a center-front separating zipper.
Main material: shearling-style faux leather with fur backing (double-faced material: outer side — faux leather, inner side — fur). Recommended fur pile height: 7–9 mm.
Lining material: light lining fabric for pocket bags and inner facings/welts.
Notions: 1 separating zipper (length depends on size), 2 pocket zippers, 16 cm each.
Suggested tools: zipper foot (or Teflon/walking foot), leather needles (if needed), clips instead of pins, a cotton scrap for cleaning the surface after marking/handling.
| Size | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 | 62 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric 1.5 m wide | 1.20* | 1.25* | 1.25* | 1.35* | 1.35* | 1.40* | 1.45* | 1.55* | 1.55* | 1.60* | 1.65* |
| Lining 1.5 m wide | 0.25* | 0.25* | 0.25* | 0.25* | 0.25* | 0.25* | 0.25* | 0.25* | 0.25* | 0.25* | 0.25* |
| Separating zipper, cm | 58 | 59 | 60 | 61 | 61.5 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 64.5 | 65 | 66 |
* Material consumption is given without allowances for shrinkage, pattern/nap direction, checks/stripes, skewing, gaps, and other technological losses.
Before cutting, inspect the material for defects, check nap direction, and compare shades. If the material is sensitive to steam or high heat, work very carefully: test pressing on a scrap and use a pressing cloth.
For marking on faux leather, it is convenient to use an erasable pen or gel pen. Do not use standard ballpoint ink. Instead of deep notches on thick material, it is better to transfer control points as marks/lines.
Cut the shearling-style material folded with the fur inside, drawing outlines on the face side. Due to the thickness of the “sandwich,” the bottom layer may shift; after cutting, place paired pieces right sides together, align edges, and trim inaccuracies so the pieces are symmetrical.
Fusing is usually not required for fur-backed faux leather. If your material is softer or stretches, reinforce the zipper edges and pocket openings with a suitable fusible stay tape for faux leather (always test on a scrap first).
Step 1. Prepare all pieces: check pairs (left/right), transfer control marks and guide lines. On sleeve cuffs and the hem cuff (waistband), align the visible open edges especially accurately, as they will be seen after turning.
Step 2. Mark the fold lines for the sleeve cuffs and hem cuff: the turn-up is 4 cm. To form an even turn-up, draw a helper line 8 cm from the edge (later, you align the edge to this line to get an even 4 cm turn-up).
Step 3. Choose one consistent seam finish for the garment. Most joining seams are sewn with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press allowances to one side, then carefully trim the inner/lower allowance down to 2–3 mm, and stitch a topstitch on the face side to secure the allowances.
Step 4. Assemble the back: place the side back pieces right sides together with the center back, and sew the princess seams with a 1 cm allowance, matching marks. Press allowances toward the center back. Trim the center-back allowance (the inner/lower one in the “stack”) to 2–3 mm and sew a topstitch along the center-back piece to secure allowances.
Step 5. Attach the yoke to the back: match marks and seam intersections, sew with a 1 cm allowance. Press allowances toward the yoke, trim the inner/lower allowance to 2–3 mm, and sew a topstitch along the yoke to secure allowances.
Step 6. Prepare the pocket zipper (finished length 16 cm). If the zipper is longer, shorten it from the top. If the zipper lacks a convenient top stop or has a bulky end that interferes, make a neat “tail”: sew a small faux-leather rectangle to the zipper tape, placing bartacks before/after the teeth to form a clean edge at the pocket opening.
Step 7. Insert the zipper into the pocket built into the front seam. Align the zipper tape with the pocket-opening allowance and sew the zipper with a 1 cm allowance using a zipper foot, following the length marks. At the corners, clip the allowances at a 45° angle (stop about 1 mm before the stitch line), turn the corner out neatly, and secure the zipper “tails” to the allowances so the corners sit cleanly.
Step 8. Sew on the lining pocket bag piece, aligning to the zipper stitching line. If the pocket bag edges are finished, ensure this piece is slightly smaller around the perimeter than the facing so it stays hidden. Then fold the pocket bag away and sew a topstitch 0.1 cm from the zipper seam on the pocket-bag side to secure the allowances.
Step 9. Place the facing (ideally with the fur side toward the pocket bag so the hand feels warm inside the pocket), and secure along the zipper. Arrange the pocket bag so it does not peek out from under the facing, pin/clip, and sew around the pocket perimeter with a 1 cm allowance. Additionally, secure the pocket to the front edge/center front piece with a 1 cm seam, without pulling or leaving excess slack, so the pocket does not sag.
Step 10. Assemble the front: sew the side front to the center front along the seam with a 1 cm allowance, matching the pocket marks. Near the pocket zipper, use a zipper foot. If the slider blocks the way, start sewing from the bottom, approach the slider, lift the foot, open the zipper, and continue. Press allowances toward the side piece, trim the inner/lower allowance to 2–3 mm, and sew a topstitch on the side front to secure allowances.
Step 11. Sew the shoulder seams: place front and back right sides together, match marks, sew with a 1 cm allowance. Press allowances toward the back yoke piece, trim the inner/lower allowance to 2–3 mm, and topstitch along the yoke to secure the shoulder seam allowances.
Step 12. Sew the side seams with a 1 cm allowance. Press allowances toward the back, trim the inner/lower allowance to 2–3 mm, and topstitch on the back to secure allowances.
Step 13. Attach the hem cuff (waistband). Sew the cuff into a ring at the short ends with a 1 cm allowance, matching marks. Place the cuff right sides together with the hem and sew with a 1 cm allowance. Press allowances toward the cuff, trim the inner/lower allowance to 2–3 mm, and topstitch on the cuff. Form the 4 cm turn-up using the markings (align the edge to the 8 cm line) and secure the turn-up evenly according to the pattern/marks.
Step 14. Attach the center-front separating zipper. Align the zipper tape to the front edges and sew using a zipper foot. Near the top corners, carefully trim away excess thickness so the area by the collar lies cleanly.
Step 15. Prepare the collar: the collar’s face side is fur. The collar turn-up is 3 cm. Transfer helper lines to the piece (3 cm turn-up + 3 cm guide). Fold and sew the corner with a 1 cm allowance (it can help to draw the 1 cm line). Open the seam allowances and turn the corner out. Shape the decorative edge on the undercollar: stitch 0.3 cm from the fold line to hold the edge in place.
Step 16. Sew the collar into the neckline. Place the collar right sides together with the neckline, match marks (center, shoulders), and sew with a 1 cm allowance, getting as close to the zipper as possible. If needed, trim the neckline allowance to reduce bulk and minimize the visibility of the dark inner layer.
Step 17. Finish the zipper top near the collar: fold the zipper tail and, aligning to the collar seam, sew the tail into the collar area very carefully (mind the zipper stop so you do not break the needle). Trim the excess zipper tail and slightly trim the collar edge if needed to reduce bulk.
Step 18. Topstitch the front edges and neckline: start at one front edge, fold the zipper away, sew the topstitch, then continue around the neckline, folding the collar allowances toward the neckline, and proceed down the other front edge. On faux leather, it is best to avoid extra backstitching in highly visible areas.
Step 19. Assemble the sleeves. Sew the elbow seam: place the upper and under sleeve right sides together and sew with a 1 cm allowance. Press allowances toward the upper sleeve, trim the inner/lower allowance to 2–3 mm, and topstitch to secure. Then sew the front sleeve seam using the same method.
Step 20. Prepare the sleeve cuffs. Sew the cuff short seam, shaping the area for the turn-up based on the marked lines: sew to the marked point (to the point that corresponds to 1 cm before the turn-up line), make clips near the bartack, turn the cuff, and sew the seam allowances to form a clean corner. Trim the allowance on the back cuff piece and topstitch. Then fold the allowance to the face side and stitch 0.3 cm from the edge of the allowance.
Step 21. Attach cuffs to sleeves. Turn the sleeve inside out. Insert the cuff into the turned sleeve, matching the cuff mark to the mark at the middle of the under sleeve. Align edges and sew with a 1 cm allowance. Trim the cuff allowance, press allowances downward, and sew a topstitch along the seam edge (with the sleeve turned) to secure allowances.
Step 22. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Extend the shoulder mark slightly beyond the seam (for the later decorative section). Match the sleeve cap mark to the shoulder mark, align the front sleeve seam with the front seam line, align the elbow seam with the back yoke seam, and align the under sleeve with the side seam. If needed, baste within the seam allowance (about 0.8 cm so you do not leave holes in faux leather). Sew the sleeve with a 1 cm allowance.
Step 23. Finish the shoulder/armhole decorative section. From the shoulder point on the back, measure 1.5 cm toward the yoke and measure the required segment length; mark the same length from the shoulder point on the front. On this marked segment, trim the garment allowance (start trimming about 1 cm above any bartack) and sew a topstitch to secure allowances from mark to mark.
Step 24. Final pressing. Press the garment gently: from the wrong side, through a pressing cloth, with minimal steam. Check front-edge symmetry, collar shape, zipper function, and the quality of topstitching.